On top of the world
Montacute, hidden deep in the South Somerset countryside, is best known for its grand mansion – now a noted National Trust property.
Montacute House and the surrounding villages are all lovingly crafted from the warm honey-coloured Ham stone. These days, Ham Hill, site of the stone quarries, is a delightful country park covering 154 acres of woodland and grassland, where quarrying and the construction of fortifications have left a network of ramparts, ridges and terraces.
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The panoramic views from this lofty hilltop perch encompass the Mendip and Quantock Hills, as well as the Dorset Downs to the south. Another viewpoint is the 18th-century lookout tower high on St Michael's Hill. The hilltop, itself part of the Montacute Estate, was formerly the site of a Norman Castle. This is truly a memorable walk of literal high points.
The King's Arms Inn is a charming country house also built from the local Ham stone. As well as cask-conditioned ales and fine wines, visitors can enjoy seasonal home-cooked English cuisine in either the Cottage Restaurant or the Abbey Room. The choices range from bar snacks right through to romantic a la carte dining, which ensures that every taste is catered for.
For those warm, balmy summer days, this fine hostelry can also offer a delightful garden – quite the perfect place to relax after a stroll on the hills.
If your taste is for the cup that "cheers but doth not inebriate", then the King's Arms can also offer morning coffee and afternoon teas.
Opening times are 11am to 11pm every day. Telephone: 01935 822513.
1.
Follow the side lane alongside the King's Arms, which passes up the church and former school. At the top of this lane, by Abbey Farm, walk along the gravelled track ahead signposted as a private road. Having passed a converted farm building, continue along a track that passes through two gateways before continuing as a grassy ridge up to a gate and Hollow Lane. Turn right before passing through a handgate on the right into a field. Turn left, and follow the top left edges of the next three fields to a pair of handgates and a lane just beyond a stable block. Join the road, turn right and, in 150 yards, pass through a handgate on the left. Turn right and climb the bank ahead up to a gate and fence. Follow the line of the fence – with the fence on the right – across the hilltop for 400 yards to a gate. Beyond the gate, turn left and walk around the perimeter of a field to a gate in the far right corner by a lane.
2.
Pass through the gateway, turn right and, just before the road, turn left along a woodland path. Follow this path down to a bungalow on the right called Hill Top, and the entrance to a quarry on the left. Walk straight ahead past the quarry entrance, to an open clearing. Cross this clearing, follow the path opposite back into woodland and continue for 100 yards to a junction with a well-defined track on the western edge of Ham Hill. Follow this path to the right for 300 yards to reach Norton car park, then bear right out to the lane. Turn left and follow this lane along to a road junction. Continue ahead and, in 100 yards, turn right along a side turning signposted to the Prince of Wales. In 30 yards, pass through a handgate on the left and follow a gravelled path to the northern end of Ham Hill. Climb the embankment up to a war memorial, and turn right to follow the hilltop embankments around the northern and eastern edges of Ham Hill for half a mile to a handgate and the car park for the Prince of Wales pub.
3.
Turn left alongside the pub to follow a stepped path downhill from the lane. At the bottom of these steps, pass through a handgate on the left to follow another stepped path. At the bottom of these steps, turn right through a gateway and shortly follow the bridleway ahead, signposted to Montacute. Follow the main track ahead for three-quarters of a mile through Hedgecock Hill Wood to where the track bears sharply to the left and drops downhill. At this point, turn right. In 200 yards, turn left down a side path and drop down to a stile and an open field – ahead are the wooded slopes of St Michael's Hill. Walk across the field, passing to the right of St Michael's Hill, to reach the south-eastern corner of this isolated hillock. (A steep path on the left leads to the tower at the summit of St Michael's Hill.) On reaching the corner of this wooded hill, follow a sunken path downhill between trees – walking away from St Michael's Hill – down to a gateway. Walk down past Abbey Farm to another gate, turn left and follow the lane back to the King's Arms.
Place of interest: Montacute House (NT), built in the late 16th century for Sir Edward Phelps – Speaker of the House of Commons under James I – is a true stately home. Elegant chimneys, carved parapets, a splendid stateroom and formal gardens combine to form what is a nationally renowned masterpiece.
Telephone 01935 823289 for details of opening times for the house and garden.
Pub Walks for Motorists Bristol & Bath, Somerset and Gloucestershire, by Nigel Vile, is published by Countryside Books priced £8.99.







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