Another world of luxury
When it comes to northern African winter break destinations, Egypt and Morocco have long been the two major players, attracting British visitors with their mix of culture, sunshine, history and sandy beaches.
Now Tunisia is getting in on the act, aiming to attract its share of winter sunshine seekers to a destination that is little more than a two-and-a-half-hour flight from London.
"So much. So close," is how the Tunisian National Tourist Office has chosen to market their country over here – and even a three-day stay in the south of Tunisia provided enough of a snapshot to justify that tag.
Modern Tunisia has been shaped by a long line of historical influences, including the Berbers, Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Arabs, Ottomans and French, from whom independence was gained in 1956.
The result is an intriguing culture, which, when you throw in the Mediterranean climate and a number of top-class hotels, makes an ideal destination for a winter getaway.
My whirlwind trip centred on north Africa's largest island of Djerba, the nation's capital, Tunis, and the area around Tataouine and Chenini in the south-east. With so much to see and do in little more than 72 hours, it was not possible to focus for too long on any specific aspect of the country – but what became glaringly obvious was that Tunisia is a fascinating country that offers much more than simply sun and relaxation. After flying from London Heathrow to Tunis, and spending a night at the four-star Hotel Sidi Bou Said, I was up at 5am to catch the 6.45am flight to Djerba.
High winds and pouring rain – extremely rare for the region – greeted my arrival in Djerba, but it did not dampen the enjoyment of a whistle-stop tour of the island.
Djerba is the legendary land of the Lotus-eaters in Homer's Odyssey, but today it is more noted for its pottery and seawater spa treatments (thalassotherapy).
The island stretches only 25 kilometres at its widest point, with the capital of Houmt Souk having a real Mediterranean feel with its cobbled streets and seafood restaurants.
After a brief tour, it was off to the five-star Hotel Yadis and its spa facilities.
After a couple of early mornings and a fair deal of travelling, the opportunity to spend an afternoon relaxing in a hot pool was more than a little appealing.
My spa treatment began by being asked to replace my swimming shorts with a paper thong, before a Tunisian masseuse went to work as pan-pipe versions of Michael Jackson's greatest hits were played into the tiny room. A warm seawater bath followed, before a 20-minute aqua aerobic session, a brief stint in a jacuzzi, a Hammam steambath and exfoliating scrub, and finally, a lie-down in a darkened room.
After all that exertion, it was only fitting that I retired to the hotel's bar for a cold bottle of Celtia, the local lager, and a delicious dinner of lamb tajine. The ability to buy booze in Tunisia is one of the things that sets it apart from neighbouring Libya for potential tourists.
While Tunisia is a Muslim country, president Zine el-Abidene ben Ali has made it clear he is determined to maintain the open society left behind by the French.
Leaving Djerba behind via the six kilometre Roman causeway the following morning, the destination was Tunisia's south-eastern hinterland. The first stop was Ksar Ouled Soltane, a 15th century fortified hilltop three-storey granary built by the Berbers to protect themselves and their livestock from raiders.
Next it was off to Chenini, a picturesque mountainside Berber village, before an 80km drive north to the troglodyte dwellings at Matmata. The underground houses date back to the fourth century BC, but with more than 100 examples in the region, it is worth being adventurous and looking beyond the much-publicised one that was used as a Star Wars set.
The region in general is well worth exploring, with more than 150 Ksars, although on-site information is sparse so a decent reference book – or, if you're feeling flush, a professional tour guide – would be a major help.
After a day of travelling and sightseeing, there was still time to travel back to Djerba via boat, before catching an evening flight to Tunis.
In the capital, I stayed at the five-star Hotel Residence, for which there are probably not enough superlatives to do justice. A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, The Residence, with its swimming pools and extensive spa facilities, could probably provide a relaxing holiday within its own grounds.
My heavy itinerary did not afford me too much time in its elegant surroundings, because it was off to the Tunis medina shortly after breakfast. A bustling maze of streets packed with shops selling everything from pottery and linen to tacky souvenirs and football shirts, the medina – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is where old meets new in the capital.
And like Tunisia itself, the medina is well worth a visit – provided you set aside enough time to savour its glory.
● Steve Cotton travelled to Tunisia as a guest of the Tunisian National Tourist Office (www.cometotunisia.co.uk)
● Tunisair operate four flights per week from London Heathrow to Tunis, prices start from £177 (including taxes). For reservations call 020 7734 7644 or go to www.tunisair.com.
● Stay at the 5-star Hotel Yadis Thalasso Golf, for reservations call 00216 75 747 236 or visit www.yadis.com – or at the 5-star hotel The Residence, La Marsa, Tunis, for reservations call 00216 71 910 101 or visit www.theresidence.com.
● The currency in Tunisia is the Dinar, a closed currency, while the predominant second language in the country is French.









Comments
by John, Frenchay
Friday, November 20 2009, 1:08PM
“Went to Tunisia once. Recommended. Probably the nearest faraway place you can go. Wouldn't fancy Egypt though. Too many recent incidents of terrorism against Western tourists.”