Plain sailing
S alisbury Plain's wide open views and marvellous folding downland, then the more cosy picturesque landscape of the Wylye Valley with small hamlets including Knook and a great pub by the river – these are the great contrasts of this moderate circle.
Up on the Plain, the circle goes along the Imber Range path where if you are unlucky, you may hear or see some army activity. When I came it was silent with just the mournful cry of buzzards. Expect to see a good variety of wild flowers.
There is a steady climb up on to the Plain but nothing steep and it is well graded.
Do try and choose a clear day to really see the views at their best and go well prepared for winds on the exposed Plain.
Bring your dog, as there are virtually no stiles and none of these should prevent any problems.
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START
Walk along the interesting High Street passing the Red Lion, friendly village shop and church on the right (you come back through the churchyard).
Heytesbury is a very ancient village, originally a Hundred (an area containing 100 households) belonging to the Crown before 1145. It was part of the great Royal Forest of Selwood, which covered a vast 165 square miles. Later the village became a centre for cloth production using the power of the River Wylye.
Further along on the left stands one of the curious little "blind houses", an octagonal building with stone-tiled roof containing a dome, in which many years ago offenders were locked up by the village constable. This was restored in 2007.
Go by the old almshouses, better known as the Hospital of St John. Opposite is an old coaching inn, the Angel. Then bend left with the road and continue to the A36. Cross with care.
1. LANE
Go up the single track No Through Lane opposite. Soon on the right see the beautiful parkland around Heytesbury House.
It stands on the site of the medieval mansion of East Court, the house that Walter, Lord Hungerford, was repairing and enlarging when beheaded by Henry VIII for treason.
The house remained semi-derelict until the 17th century when the Ashe family bought it. It remained in the family until 1926 when it was then bought by Siegfried Sassoon, the poet and writer.
He was there until 1967, and his son, the late George Sassoon, lived in it until 1994 when it was sold and divided into apartments.
This is a quiet lane and the only vehicles are likely to be from the farms or the military. Continue on in the East Hill Farm direction, avoiding side turns, for about a mile.
2. FARM
Opposite East Hill Farm, turn right on the footpath by a Defence sign, passing cottages. You joined the Imber Range path some way back along the lane. It has a distinctive field gun logo and is a 30 mile circular walk around the perimeter of the Imber Firing Range. Make sure you don't venture onto the ranges themselves at any time!
Cross a military road and go up steps opposite onto the footpath. Go into a field and head diagonally up to the wood at the top and continue along with the trees on your left.
3. WOOD CORNER
At the corner of the wood, keep on, bearing right, keeping to the left of the military road that winds uphill. Reach the Keep Out signs for the firing ranges and come close to the road.
4. MILITARY ROAD
Cross the road and follow the Imber Range path opposite along the edge of a field by the road, keeping the white topped posts on your left. Hopefully, it won't be too ploughed up or overgrown along here, but if it is, walk along the side of the military road itself. Drop down into a dip and up again. Cross the military road and follow the track uphill, in roughly the same direction as before. Great views unfold behind you as you rise up.
Pass on your left a grassy mound – the remains of Knook Long Barrow – an unchambered barrow later used by the Romans. It was part of Old Ditch, an early settlement sited near a track that ran from Westbury Leigh across Salisbury Plain to Great Durnford on the River Avon.
Reach the highest point.
5. BYWAY
At the end of the field come to a storage tank and byway. Turn right down the byway and just before you reach the military road again, veer left on a small path. Near here you may be able to see another Iron Age hill fort, Knook Castle, an ancient single-ditched entrenchment. It is supposed to have been originally a British villa.
The small path shortly leads to the military road at a point where you can cross straight over onto the Tarmac track opposite.
Follow this track past farm buildings and continue all the way to the main road, the B390. Cross on to the grassy track opposite, following a fence on the left. Climb uphill.
6. BARN
Reach a barn on Ansty Hill and continue on. Ignore side tracks. You now start to get views across the Wylye Valley ahead. Pass a farm and continue on down hill.
7. MAIN ROAD
Reach the A36 and cross, very carefully as visibility to the right is not great. Take the lane opposite towards Upton Lovell.
8. UPTON LOVELL
Take the first lane right signed to the village – a No Through Road. On a right-hand bend, you can turn left to the medieval church if you wish which has some beautiful stained glass windows.
But then continue round the bend and soon reach the village pub, now well refurbished, the Prince Leopold.
I came on a hot September day with the dog and it was glorious sitting in the garden alongside the river. The pub is open daily for lunch.
Continue to the end of the lane and take the footpath at the end. Go through into the field and follow the left hedge straight on towards the village of Knook. Go through a gate and along a farm track and reach this small village.
9. KNOOK
Today about 60 people live here but years ago it supported a population of 300, many of them cloth workers of Heytesbury. Up on the A36 is Knook Camp, laid out for the artillery in 1914.
Turn left and reach the ancient church of St Margaret's, a very peaceful place. Continue on and pass glorious Knook Manor, a Tudor building of stone with gabled ends, gabled porch and stone mullioned windows.
10. FOOTBRIDGE
At the end of the lane, bear left on a footpath and cross a footbridge over the Wylye. Immediately turn right over a stile and follow the river along, with two restored former weavers' thatched cottages on the other side. At the end of the path, bear diagonally left across the field. On the far side go right through wooden posts into another field and follow the left hedge-line to the end. Leave the field and come on to a path.
11. PATH
Turn right and soon cross a small footbridge over a tributary and reach a lane. Here turn right over the Wylye and immediately go left on a footpath by the river passing a converted millhouse and cottages on the other bank. A kissing gate takes you into a field and continue on with the fence on your left.
Go through another gate and continue on until you reach a lane. Stay in the same direction along this pretty stretch by the river. Reach a junction with a lane on the edge of Heytesbury. Turn left up Mill Street and reach the church.
Go straight through the churchyard and out to the main village street where you started.
The Prince Leopold, Upton Lovell, 01985 850460, open every day. Please call before setting out to confirm opening times.
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