Ian Pemble finds a down-to-earth club that is right up his street

MY first visit to Frome Golf Club was an anticlimax: I found I'd left my shoes back in Bristol and returned home in a foul mood. That quickly turned to relief when the heavens opened and I realised I'd escaped a soaking.

But a week later, when another review got rained off, I drove halfway across Somerset for another go. This wasn't one of my phone-ahead visits; I turned up unannounced, yet the welcome when I walked into the bar (where you pay your green fees, quiet at the back) could not have been warmer.

I was immediately made to feel at home by the smiley lady as she explained the charges, provided me with a card and a map and, served me a pint. Once refreshed, I headed off on the front nine, a big loop around the outside of the course.

To begin with, the holes are equally warm and welcoming, although bad shots still get what they deserve – trying to cut the corner on the dogleg-left, fourth hole resulted in a lost ball and an ugly seven.

But then comes the fifth. From a high tee, the ground falls away to a wide fairway that slopes down and across from the right to the Mells River all down the left. This is hidden by trees for the most part, yet it does a good job of lurking with intent behind the fifth, sixth and 15th greens. I managed a plucky bogey at the fifth, chipped in for a par at the sixth and another par at the short, uphill seventh contributed to 18 points for the front nine.

Big happy smiles from Uncle Ian and another stop-off (this time for a modest shandy) should have set me up for the back nine. Sadly, my game stayed behind for another beer and never caught me up, so eights at the two par-5s (11 and 16), plus a couple of sixes, reduced my Stableford score to 11 points.

As with most courses, there are a few holes that don't offer a lot between tee and green, but there were a couple on the back nine that made me sit up and take notice – plus one silly one. The 14th is a downhill par-3 of 133 yards that seems to be there just to make up the numbers. By contrast, its companion, the 15th, is an excellent par-3 of 182 yards that carries on down the same slope to a large pond in front of the green and the river behind. You need a tee shot of at least 160 yards (downhill, cross-wind, which club?) to reach the flat bit – speculation and spectacle all rolled into one. I hit a good shot, didn't allow enough for the wind, and my ball also turned to drink.

Has a brilliant par-4 been turned into two par-3s? If so, at least the 15th makes up for it – and it's worth remembering that 15 years ago this was no more than a dairy farm.

The other “signature” hole is the 18th. It has a lake in front of the tee, obvious water up the left and even more in front of the green. It's pretty but it's still short for a par-4 (242 yards), while the par-3 17th, at 198 yards, is a more subtle test – there's also a hidden stream up the left. They must have been tempted to push the tee back and make it a bland par-4, but I'm glad they resisted.

With a par of 69 and only 5,527 yards off the yellow tees (no white tees, 5,001 yards for the ladies), this is a short course that has to cram in as much golf as possible. With the obvious exception of the 14th, it succeeds well and has a fine balance between holes where you just have to be straight and ones that make you think.

Green fees are £17 for nine holes and £24 for 18 on weekdays (£20 and £28 respectively at weekends). Clubs in densely populated areas can keep prices lower because they are busier, so £24 is good value for a rural golf course. Full memberships start at about £190 a year for juniors rising to £660 for adults and there are five-day and other options (see website). Societies (at least 12, please) can choose between a running buffet or bacon sandwiches and coffee on arrival – phone ahead to book.

Address: Frome Golf Club, Critchill Manor, Frome BA11 4LJ

Telephone: 01373 453410

Email: fromegolfclub@yahoo.co.uk

Website: www.fromegolfclub.fsnet.co.uk

Getting there: Unless you know the back roads in this part of the east Mendips it's probably best to aim for the A361 between Shepton Mallet and Frome and turn north towards Nunney. In the centre of town, cross over the bridge and turn left (signposted Frome). After a couple of miles you will see the club's wide entrance on your left.