A walk to cap them all
It may be undulating underfoot, but Sue Gearing
heartily recommends this coastal walk exploring Dorset's wild
and rugged Jurassic coast
SUMMER just wouldn't be summer without a coastal walk, and
this is one of the best – along the spectacular Jurassic coast,
East of Charmouth, in West Dorset, and taking in the highest
point along the coast, Golden Cap.
You can see the sea for most of the walk and there's a stop
at Seatown if you want the pub and/or a swim. The first half is
the easiest, with only one moderate hill. The main climbs come
after Seatown with the ascent of Golden Cap and then an
undulating walk along the top of the cliffs before climbing
back to Stonebarrow Hill.
However, the coastal scenery and great air make it so
worthwhile, and there's a great variety of wild flowers and
birds. We also visit the remains of an old village at St
Gabriel's. Expect lots of stiles, but most of them include a
doggy gate, too. Be prepared for coastal winds and try and
choose a clear day to enjoy the views fully.
START
Continue on the track past the various parking areas and the
National Trust shop, cafe and toilets.
1. FOOTPATH
Walk on to the very end, where cars can no longer go, and
then fork right through the small parking area. Take the marked
footpath through a gate and then continue on, more or less in
the same direction as before, along the top of Chardown Hill.
Go through a gate and carry on. The path curves right with the
shape of the hill. You now get good views across to Lyme
Bay.
Reach a marker post and bear right, following the blue arrow
and descending towards the coast. Pass another marker post and
continue down on a wide, stony path.
Reach a crossing track and turn left following the blue
arrow, passing a “hens on path” sign at a small farming hamlet,
Upton.
2. UPTON
Pass a pretty cottage on the left in the hamlet, and turn
left on the path to St Gabriel's. Shortly, look carefully for a
stile on the right marked with a yellow footpath arrow. Cross
and go across, keeping a big barn on your right, and cross
another stile. Go down the field along the right hedge. A stile
in the bottom corner leads on to a concrete track. Turn
right.
3. TRACK
Just follow the track all the way, ignoring any
side-paths.
4. ST GABRIEL'S
The track bends and wends its way to St Gabriel's, with a
picturesque thatched farmhouse (now National Trust holiday
cottages) and an information board about the history of this
medieval hamlet.
From here, turn left on the path signed to Golden Cap and
Seatown and go up and through a gate and reach the ruins of the
old chapel. Carry on past the chapel in the direction of
Langdon Wood and Seatown through a gate, then through another
gate into a field.
Here, turn right uphill along the hedge towards Golden Cap.
Bend left in the corner and walk along the top of the field,
passing behind the Cap up on your right. In the next corner, go
through a gate and carry on towards Langdon Wood.
5. LANGDON WOOD
Reach Langdon Wood and maintain direction straight on along
a path, passing the wood on your left. If you had time, in
spring you may like to go into the wood, which is a great area
for bluebells.
Ignore a stile on your right and all side-turns and follow
the path all the way to a small road.
6. SEATOWN
Turn right down through the village of Seatown. Just before
the entrance to a caravan site on your left is a stile on the
right on to the coastal path diversion. The path has had to be
diverted back here. But if you want the beach and the Anchor
pub, continue for another minute or so to the end. The pub has
a great garden above the beach and serves a wide range of
food.
7. COAST PATH
To continue, return to the stile on to the coast path. Go
alongside a garden and over a stile into a field. Cross this
and go over a stile and footbridge and now simply carry on
following the well-signed path.
It's a steep climb up to the Cap, but there are one or two
benches for resting.
8. GOLDEN CAP
On the top, reach the trig point at 191m, where the views
are spectacular. Go along the top of the Cap and then descend
and continue on the main coast path looking to St Gabriel's on
your right.
9. FOOTBRIDGE
Drop right down and cross a footbridge over a stream and
carry on. Avoid side-footpaths, such as those to Chardown Hill
or Stonebarrow Hill.
The path is undulating – stay on the coastal path and go
over two more footbridges. Continue on as before until you pass
a farmhouse over on your right. Don't take the path inland near
the farm, stay on the coast path, climbing uphill until you
reach a hedge of trees and bushes at the top and cross a
stile.
10. SMUGGLER'S PATH
Once over, turn right on the Smuggler's Path (marked as
such). Follow this under trees, go through a kissing gate and
on. At the next signpost, turn up sharp left and climb steeply.
Go through a kissing gate and then turn right and soon reach
Stonebarrow Hill parking.
Anchor Inn, Seatown, 01297 489215.
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