"We'll have nettles and squirrels on the menu, but no horse meat": Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
GREY squirrel could be on the menu at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's new Bristol restaurant – if someone will go out and catch it for him.
The campaigner, TV presenter and food writer was in the city this weel for the first time since his new restaurant opened on Monday.
River Cottage Canteen is situated in Whiteladies Road in a converted Grade II listed 19th Century church hall, and is a much anticipated addition to Bristol's restaurant scene.
Last month it emerged that Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall's restaurant of the same name in Plymouth had served up grey squirrel starters.
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The creatures, said to taste like rabbit, were shot at River Cottage HQ on the Devon-Dorset border and braised in a tomato and red wine sauce.
When asked if Bristol diners would see squirrels on the menu Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall said: "If someone will go out and catch them for me!"
The experimental chef is open to serving almost anything – as long as it is local and seasonal.
"We will be serving up lots of local venison, as well as pigeons and rabbits," he said.
"If there are other things that are local and sustainable that we are offered by our suppliers, we will look at putting it on the menu."
Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall is also excited about the possible foraging opportunities just outside the city.
"The great thing about Bristol is that you don't have to go very far to be in the countryside," he said.
"One thing we will soon be serving up is spring hedgerow greens – things like nettles and wild garlic.
"I'm not saying you'll see me on a dirty city roadside searching for nettles but there are some definite foraging opportunities a little bit further out."
Mr Fearnely-Whittingstall is proud that up to 90 per cent of the produce comes from within a 50-mile radius of the restaurant. He wants to form close links with local suppliers.
Chew Magna-based Community Farm will provide the restaurant's organic vegetables, while it will also take produce from Sunseed Organics, based by Temple Meads.
"These are people our chefs have been getting to know and building relationships with," he said. "It's great, because the whole team get really excited about the produce.
"It gives them real inspiration – its imperative for us to know exactly where something has come from."
Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall's approach to food could be seen as the complete opposite of the large retailers who were recently exposed in the horse meat scandal.
And funnily enough that is one type of meat he says he will not be serving up.
"I am definitely not about to put horse on the menu," he said.
"It's not something that is, or really ever has been, part of the culture.
"It's been an extraordinary time – it's not so much the horse that I find offensive, it's the selling of products by massive companies that do not bother checking what they really are or where they really come from."
Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall, known for his Channel 4 TV series River Cottage, opened his first restaurant in Axminster in 2008 when he re-purposed a disused town centre pub.
He opened the next River Cottage Canteen in Plymouth's Royal William Yard in 2011.
The TV chef told The Post that Bristol was the next obvious place for him as the "buzziest city in the West Country".
"I've got a bit of previous in Bristol," he said.
"My parents live in Wotton- under-Edge and I had a lot of friends at Bristol University and at the Soil Association, which has been here for a long time.
"I've also taken part in the organic food festival – it's the buzziest city in the West Country.
"Both my other restaurants are in wonderful locations and I wanted something like that here too.
"We looked at other places in the city but found this beautiful old church hall with stained glass windows that was a bit out of shape after being used by a building society, and felt it was perfect."
The new restaurant was designed and renovated over a ten-week period by Paintworks-based Simple Simon Design.
They were asked to use British firms, with much of the interiors being supplied locally.
Mr Fearnley Whittingstall told The Post: "What I hope people can expect when they come here is the best local food in somewhere that is fun and exciting to be in.
"We want to be very much a part of the community for the people that live and work here."






13 Comments
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by ReeceFowler
Monday, March 11 2013, 10:48PM
“green man,
"Rabbits are an introduced species too - do you want rid of them altogether?"
No because they can coexist with wildlife as long as they are controlled. Grey squirrels, however, cannot coexist with red squirrels full stop, you need to wipe out the greys for red squirrels to survive. Not the case with rabbits where control and not eradication is sufficient.”
by ReeceFowler
Monday, March 11 2013, 10:46PM
“green man,
"No reason in principle why Bristol should not develop a local, sustainable market in grey squirrel meat (unless you dont eat meat on principle of course). They are a renewable resource if properly and sensitively managed so that the use rate is less than the replenishment rate. The practicalities would have to be got right in that: we'd need to know that the quality of the meat was good; 'harvesting' them should be humane and licensed; and should be done on the basis of the best information on numbers and reproduction rate of squirrels (consuming them at too fast a rate means running out of the local supply)."
Grey squirrels are very invasive and it is difficult to get rid of them unless you try really hard. They're not going to run out. You also have woods which don't have grey squirrel control, which will inevitably act as reservoirs.
And we want them to run out, in order to help wildlife like red squirrels.
Culling is perfectly humane anyway, and to sell the meat you need a game meat hygiene certificate (search on the BASC website for more), so you won't get any Tom, Dick or Harry doing it. Culling them inhumanely causes them stress, which reduces the quality of the meat, so people culling them for food do it properly anyway as it is in their interest.”
by BlueFace
Monday, March 11 2013, 11:54AM
“Pretentious and no doubt over priced.
Sincerely hope it flops and this creepy capitalist gets run out of town.”
by BowLegedChick
Sunday, March 10 2013, 11:57PM
“Green Man, why do you always have to be so right? Do you think you could occasionally say something stupid so that the rest of us do not feel inadequate?”
by green_man
Sunday, March 10 2013, 11:39PM
“Whose idea Stephen_L? Not mine - and I dont see any massive efforts in Bristol either. Why get rid of the 'little invaders' one day (if that's possible) when grey squirrels might, if the practicalities are right, provide us with a locally available sustainable, healthy meat supply? Control numbers AND get something very useful from it. Rabbits are an introduced species too - do you want rid of them altogether? Or is it more practical to think instead about controlling their numbers (including eating them)?”
by Stephen_L
Sunday, March 10 2013, 10:36AM
“Green Man,
The idea is for grey squirrel NOT to be a renewable resource. The idea is to actually run out of the little invaders one day.”
by max31268
Saturday, March 09 2013, 7:01PM
“sounds like a good way to re-establish the red squirrel…”
by Stephen_L
Saturday, March 09 2013, 2:38PM
“Why no horse? It's absolutely delicious. Just as long as you don't say it's beef on the menu.”
by C_Freak
Saturday, March 09 2013, 1:56PM
“I can see scope fer a bit uv road-kill yer, even seagull. . That should keep the prices down a bit.”
by Bristolexpat
Saturday, March 09 2013, 1:25PM
“Okay, I obviously meant "the BEP will be running follow up stories TWICE a day this week as well........"”