A light lunch Kitchen finds its spiritual home at last
It's a case of third time lucky for Zazu's Kitchen, which recently moved lock, stock and barrel to Gloucester Road after stints on Stokes Croft and Clifton Village.
In lesser hands, three different locations in two years might look unfortunate, careless even, but owner Toby Bywater sees this latest site as the spiritual home for Zazu's, which has gained a loyal following wherever it has been.
Its move to the site formerly occupied by Bistro La Barrique marks the start of a new and interesting collaboration between Bywater (who used to work for Raymond Blanc) and James Savage, one of the co-owners of The Spotted Cow in Bedminster and The Lido Kitchen in Portishead, among other successful operations.
The pair have done a wonderful job in transforming a dark French bistro into a light and airy space with retro artwork on the white walls, enamel factory lamps, reclaimed 1950s Ercol wooden tables and blue thistle flowers in old school milk bottles.
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Open for brunch, lunch, dinner, or simply as a place to pop in for a morning coffee and cake or post-work glass of wine, Zazu's appeals to all-comers and the sunny, child-friendly decked area at the front is sure to become a new summer meeting place for the BS7 branch of the Yummy Mummies Association.
Brunch is served from 9am until 3pm and might include smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and chives on sourdough toast (£5.75) or homemade date and walnut granola with yoghurt and honey (£4.50). That's if the English breakfast (£7) or bacon bap (£2.95) doesn't tempt you.
In the evening, a full a la carte menu is available, with starters around the £5 mark and main courses ranging from £9.50 for the baked aubergine and mozzarella gratin to £18.50 for the 8oz rib-eye of West Country beef.
I was there for lunch on this occasion and the beetroot, orange, fennel and Feta salad (£7.50) was well made with the earthy beetroot and crunchy fennel working well with the orange segments and the salty, crumbly Feta.
Other light lunch options include Serrano-wrapped asparagus with poached egg and hollandaise (£6) and the Zazu burger with onion chutney, cheese, frites and salad (£8.50) which already appears to be the best-seller.