Fun in the Forest

ISUSPECTED my long weekend in the New Forest may be slightly out of the ordinary when the invite reminded me not to forget my teddy bear.

As the teddy in question turned 50 this year – only two years adrift of his heavily-balding owner yet possessing substantially more on top – I duly decided he too was entitled to a treat and took him along. The reason why will hopefully become clear a little later.

The New Forest may be England's smallest national park at 140,000 acres, but that doesn't mean the area lacks in diversity – or things to do.

From ancient woodland to wide-open heaths, it also includes 26 miles of coastline and offers an ideal chance to mix a seaside holiday with stays in some lovely rural settings for those who can't contemplate spending at least some time on the beach.

It's dotted with picturesque small towns and villages and our first-night venue, the Balmer Lawn Hotel in Brockenhurst, was tucked far enough back from a fairly busy road to be nice and peaceful.

Built in the early 1800s as a hunting lodge but now operating as a country house hotel, the place boasts a fair bit of history of its own.

It was commandeered during both World Wars – used as a field hospital in the First and an Army Staff College in the Second – and numbers Churchill, King George V and General Eisenhower among its former guests. Now equipped with up-to-date leisure facilities – including indoor and outdoor pools, an all-weather tennis court, squash courts, spa and sauna – it offers a welcoming mix of the new and the traditional.

The same could be said about Beaulieu, home of the National Motor Museum and the famous Palace House and Gardens.

Set in acres of beautiful grounds, it attracts 320,000 visitors a year. Most, you suspect, are of the petrolhead persuasion, eager to see some of the 250 vehicles which range from earliest days of motoring to modern Formula One racers.

Among the attractions are four of the world land-speed record-breakers – including Donald Campbell's Bluebird – plus a number of genuine cars from the James Bond movies. And Odd Job's hat as seen in the film Goldfinger.

The Palace House – the family home of Lord Montagu since 1538 – also has a spy theme of its own. Real-life secret agents were trained at Beaulieu during the Second World War. Essentially a finishing school for espionage, it operated in total secrecy for four years, but an exhibition and film presentation reveals many of the closely-guarded secrets of the time.

It's fun to wander around the many attractions on foot, but the only monorail in England offers visitors the chance to have a leisurely aerial view of the place.

While it may be one of the New Forest's largest attractions, one of the smallest – and perhaps most unusual – is a mere half-a-mile away in Beaulieu High Street.

Bear It In Mind is a veritable teddy bear haven – not only a shop that sells an extensive range of the furry little (or big) blighters, but somewhere that also offers a repair and renovation service for teddies that have seen better days, and even courses on how to make your own.

In truth, I found the place friendly and fascinating but also a little bit surreal. It was, naturally enough, a big hit with the younger members of our group.

Our second-night stay was at the Bartley Lodge Hotel in Cadnam, now a listed building but another hotel which was originally built as a hunting lodge in 1759.

Approached via a heavily-wooded driveway, history is also heavily evident here as soon as you enter the oak-panelled hall with its minstrels' gallery and fireplace. But the facilities were far from antiquated with an indoor pool, sauna and mini-gym.

Unfortunately, the weather had turned wet and blustery for our visit to Paulton's Park – a family theme park near Romsey – but the showers failed to deter the younger members of our group attacking the 50-plus rides with gusto.

Our own offspring was only just toddling, but even he found some of the gentler rides great fun. And with ten acres of parkland to explore – along with a wealth of animal and bird attractions ranging from meerkats to penguins – it was easy to see why a whole day needed to be set aside to get the most out of the place.

We'd dried out nicely by the time we reached the Lime Wood Hotel near Lyndhurst for a late lunch. Another fabulous former hunting lodge, this one dated back to the 13th century – although given the swish look given to it after an extensive five-year refurbishment, you might have been hard-pressed to guess. It offered stunning views over the surrounding countryside and is the only five-star hotel within the boundaries of the National Park. The food in the informal Scullery restaurant was excellent too.

But the best was saved for last. Chewton Glen is a renowned, multi-award-winning five red star hotel on the edge of the Forest at New Milton, and it soon became clear why it has received quite so many accolades. The place was a gem.

It's by no means cheap, but the old adage about getting what you pay for was very evident from the moment you step through the door.

All of the 58 rooms and suites have been decorated to the highest standard with an intriguing mix of the antique and the temporary, but all ooze style and elegance.

The spa and leisure facilities were simply the best I have experienced at any hotel anywhere, with a 17-metre ozone-treated swimming pool and a nearby hydrotherapy spa pool, as well as a range of saunas, steam rooms and treatment suites. My other half thought she had died and gone to heaven – and it's also only a few minutes walk to a lovely beach.

Chewton Glen also has a tennis centre with indoor and outdoor, a nine-hole par three golf course, and a landing pad should you choose to arrive in your helicopter. Those of us who turned up by more down-to-earth means found plenty of room in the car park. The food and service in the restaurant was commensurate with the impeccable standards of the place and it was a memorable way to end a lovely family trip. Teddy had a great time too.