Pencelli walk

A quiet, scenic and varied canal circle in the Brecon Beacons, ideal when the weather is not clear enough for scaling the heights.

7 miles about 3 hours walking

OS Outdoor Leisurer Explorer, 12 Brecon Beacons National Park, Western, ref: 091 249

PARK:

At Pencelli village which is about four miles south east of Brecon on the B4558 Talybont-on-Usk to Brecon road (parallel with the A40). Follow the parking signs to a small car park at the wharf alongside the canal near the bridge. If this is full take the lane opposite towards Plas Pencelli and park by the church at the top. (The walk ends coming down here).

A particularly quiet and beautiful section along the towpath of the Monmouth and Brecon canal begins this memorable circle in the Brecon Beacons National Park.

After nearly three miles, it goes across an aqueduct and then leaves the canal and continues across country to Llanfrynach village and its pub. On Wednesday afternoons in summer, you can visit a salmon hatchery on the way. Shortly after the village comes a steepish climb but the views across the Brecons make up for that. Finally, the route explores a pretty wooded area by a stream to come out at Pencelli church. There is one 10-minute hill climb after Llanfrynach, but the rest is painless. Walking is mainly on good dry tracks, a road and small lane, and you are unlikely to encounter much mud or wet. Certainly a winner with your dog. Take a towel if you want a paddle in the Usk.

From the Wharf canal-side car park, cross the stone bridge and turn down on to the towpath and then stride out under the bridge and walk on, with the slow moving canal on your left. This beautiful quiet stretch of towpath is your route for nearly three miles, taking you under bridges, offering different views, passing boats and marinas, fishermen and walkers. It is an ideal place to relax and unwind as you progress at whatever pace you set.

On the way you will see sets of thick wooden shutters stored at the side, used to slot in under the bridges to cut off sections of the canal for necessary maintenance. We go over a small aqueduct and shortly after that under a road and continue on.

Forging its way for 32 miles, through idyllic scenery in the National Park between Brecon and Pontypool, the Brecon and Monmouth Canal is one of the most scenic waterside routes in Britain. It continues to Newport.

The canal was built between 1797 and 1812 to link Brecon with Newport and the Severn Estuary. Stone and processed lime from nearby quarries was transported by tramway to the canal and then by barge to Newport. Roads at the time were in a dreadful state.

From Newport, the lime would be transported for sale in various markets often overseas. A major tram road link existed between the canal and the large limestone quarries at Trefil and Llangattock. The canal had fallen into disuse by the 1930s but has been gradually restored, and was reopened to the public in 1970. During its passage through the National Park it features six locks, a short tunnel and a few aqueducts – two of which we cross, including one of the finest.

It is a paradise for nature lovers, too, with a wide variety of trees along the edge, wildflowers and bird life. A flash of the iridescent kingfishers' blue, as it streaks across the canal, is an unforgettable site. The canal is a favourite location for the kingfisher to breed.

En route there are spectacular views across the Brecons, and the canal itself offers the colour and activity of narrowboats in passage or resting in the various small marinas and mooring areas. It passes farms and cottages, and gives a fascinating insight into this part of the countryside.

Eventually you come alongside the River Usk down on the right .

Reach bridge 162. Don't go under, but turn up off the towpath, cross the bridge and go down on to the towpath on the other side and head on towards Brecon with the canal on your right and reach the aqueduct. There are some good picnic benches on the other side, so you may decide to cross back over. You will pass a sign pointing out an old trunk plug used for draining the canal .

1. AQUEDUCT

If you want a paddle in the Usk, there is a small path on the left which takes you down – just before you reach the aqueduct. This is one of the finest aqueducts taking the canal over the wide, fast flowing Usk at Cefn Brynich. It was renovated in 1996/7.

Continue on to reach a road bridge no. 163 and interesting lock. Turn left on the road, the B4558 and cross the Usk again. Follow the road with care, although it should not be too busy.

2. RIGHT FORK

After about seven minutes, fork right on the Llanfrynach road. Stay with this for a few minutes and then turn right on a drive/bridleway to Abercynrig.

3. ABERCYNRIG

At a bend just before Abercynrig mill, turn left through a gate following the bridleway. Bear to the right and head for another hunting gate on the right into woodland. Go through and the path leads to a Tarmac drive. On your right is a Culture Unit for fish (a salmon hatchery) which is open to the public in the summer on Wednesday afternoons.

Turn left and follow the drive to a T-junction with a lane.

4. FOOTPATH

Go straight across o nto the footpath ahead. Make your way across several fields towards the houses in Llanfrynach. It is well signed. Aim for the left of the houses and cross a footbridge over a small stream and go through a children's play area on to a lane on the edge of Llanfrynach.

5. LLANFRYNACH

Cross straight over and take the footpath towards the church. Cross a stone stile into the churchyard where they have cleared some of the older gravestones and placed them round the edge.

The church is dedicated to St Brynach who was a Welsh saint, traditionally associated with Pembrokeshire, where several churches are dedicated to him.

Go on past an iron fenced memorial in the churchyard and straight on across to a stone stile on to the lane with the White Swan opposite.

With your back to the pub, turn left along Church Row and then left along the Taff Trail through Victoria Square.

6. BRIDGE

Cross Llanfrynach bridge and continue ahead on the Taff Trail, ignoring the road to Tregaer.

7. HILL

Take the first turning right – this is the only hill of the walk, but it's quite a steep one. You can stop on the way to enjoy some widespread views across the Usk valley.

8. FARM

At the farm buildings, bear up a track to the right, still climbing. Just before you reach a field, a fingerpost directs you left to Bryn up a hedged track. Climb a little more and then turn left into a field through a gate, and go across the top of the hill along the left hedge. Cross a stile in the corner and take the footpath diagonally right. This is a great viewpoint across the Brecons.

9. LANE

Go over a stile in the corner and across a lane over yet another stile. Head down across, and go over a stile on the far side and follow the arrow down the right side of the field. Three quarters of the way down, bear right following a grassy track, going under trees. The path follows this shady green valley and stream, and crosses a footbridge. Go steeply up steps to a house. Turn left.

10. CHURCH

Cross left over a stone slab stile, go through the churchyard and past the main door. This is the beautiful church of Llanfeugan with a spectacular barrel roof inside. Go out over a slab stile by the main entrance, and up the Tarmac church drive to the top of a lane. You may have parked here if the canal car park was full. If not, just follow the lane downhill past Plas Pencelli – an outdoor activity centre and arrive at the canal wharf in Pencelli.

The White Swan, Llanfrynach, is open daily, noon to 3pm, except for Mondays. Please call 01874 665276 to confirm.