Wine of the Week
Cerbero Aglianico del Vulture 2005 is a regular on Tesco online, lately reduced from £72 to £48 per six-bottle case.
It looks a bit naff in its painted bottle – the hot red imagery represents Cerberus of the name, the two-headed hound who guards the gates to hell – but this is a serious-quality wine from Basilicata in southern Italy, from Aglianico grapes grown around the extinct but memorably named volcano of Vulture.
Aglianico vines, so the story goes, were first brought here 3,000 years ago by settlers from Greece who couldn't make them grow in their own arid landscapes, occupied Italy principally for the purpose, and incidentally founded Rome. The word Aglianico is an Italianisation of the Latin word Ellenico, meaning Greek.
The wine is as charming as the story, deep in colour with spicy black fruit and in this mature (2005, please note) partly cask-aged wine, richly smooth from oak contact.
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Ned Halley
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