CHELTENHAM is packed with plenty of independent eateries and national outlets, from the city centre to the rather more upmarket streets of Montpelier, where we chose to wander and watch Cheltenham's beautiful people stroll by.

Take your pick from umpteen bistros and restaurants tucked between the boutique shop-fronts, including Raymond Blanc's Brasserie Blanc at The Queen's Hotel on The Promenade.

Far removed from the hushed dining of his Michelin-starred Le Manoir, here you can tuck into deliciously simple but glamorous dishes ranging from Dutch calves liver to Aberdeenshire rump steak.

On a Saturday night, the venue was buzzing. The menu, of course, is also translated into French and there are a few typically French dishes (Dauphinoise potatoes, snails) but where relevant, the British provenance is also clearly marked (Cornish lamb, Glen Fyne Estate steaks).

Starters range in price from £4.95-£6.95, mains from £8.50-£27.

If you like your hotels to be traditional and involve anyone in livery, The Big Sleep is not for you.

Set in the heart of Cheltenham, yards from the bustle of the High Street and no more than a 10-minute walk from Montpelier, this is billed as a "60-bedroom designer budget hotel offering value for money, great customer service, innovative design and an exciting experience".

Our room, one of the executive suites, had a surprising amount of beige melamine furniture for our taste (we're obviously not modern enough) but was more than adequate for a night, with a very comfortable bed and vast en suite bathroom.

All bedrooms also have flat-screen TVs, broadband access, room safes, hairdryers, tea and coffee and each floor has security-card access – essential when the lift virtually opens on to the street.

Continental breakfast, served buffet-style, is available in a small open-plan room off reception (itself decorated in acid brights and block prints). Get there early, though, if you want to eat well – with no staff around to speak off, it was a bit of a free-for-all.

We also didn't realise parking would be so limited there would be no spaces left in the secure underground lot when we arrived in late afternoon – but there was plenty nearby on-street which was free all weekend.

Room rates range from £69-£140.

The Cheltenham Festival of Literature takes place at venues across the city from October 10-19 with a vast array of famous faces booked to appear – more than 450 writers at more than 350 events.

Kate Adie and Ian Rankin are the guest directors, and each has programmed a dynamic series of events with their own unique flavour.

Also taking part in the festival will be Jilly Cooper, taking a candid look at sex on the page, and artist Jack Vettriano, who will contemplate his work and influence on popular culture.

Julie Walters, pictured, Sheila Hancock, Frank Skinner, John Barrowman and Russell T Davies will also be taking part.

Rachael Sugden

Brasserie Blanc, The Queen's Hotel, The Promenade, Cheltenham GL50 1NN. Tel: 01242 266800. Website: www.brasserieblanc.com

The Big Sleep, Wellington Street, Cheltenham GL50 1XZ. Tel: 01242 696999. Website: www.thebigsleephotel.com

For more information about Cheltenham Festival of Literature, call 0844 576 8970 or 01242 774400 or visit the website at www.cheltenhamfestivals.com