As the fresh crop of Seville oranges arrives in stores, now's the time to whip up a seasonal, fruit-filled treat

January is the month that Seville oranges arrive in this country from Spain for their short but eagerly anticipated season.

With their thick, knobbly skins and tart flavour, Seville oranges are not really edible until they are cooked with sugar and turned into marmalade.

Although there are some excellent Seville orange marmalades available from supermarkets and delicatessens all year round, nothing beats the homemade variety made this month.

Making marmalades, jams and chutneys at home can be a rewarding exercise, as well as an economical way to use up any glut of fruit or vegetables.

There's something quite magical about turning a pile of knobbly citrus fruits into a few jars of sweet, spreadable marmalade.

On a frosty January morning, it certainly brings a blast of Mediterranean sunshine into the English kitchen.

First Preserves is an excellent new book by expert Vivien Lloyd, pictured left, a former winner of the prestigious World's Original Marmalade Festival.

Vivien, who lives near Midsomer Norton, is regarded as one of the leading authorities in the art of preserving and her book is packed with easy-to-follow recipes and step-by-step instructions and photographs.

There have been countless books on marmalades, jams and chutneys over the years but First Preserves concentrates on a carefully selected collection of recipes that you really want to make, rather than hundreds of recipes you'll never attempt.

It's one of the most authoritative books on the subject I've encountered and it genuinely makes you want to get into the kitchen and get making marmalade, such as this 'three fruit' variety which can be made throughout the year.

First Preserves by Vivien Lloyd is published by Citrus Press at the RRP of £17.99, but can be bought online for £12.99 plus £2.80 delivery from Vivien's website at www.vivienlloyd preserves.com.

Three fruit marmalade uses grapefruits, lemons and sweet oranges. The flavour of this marmalade is a gentle balance of the three fruits.

I like making this recipe during the Seville season and substituting the sweet orange for a Seville.

● 1 grapefruit

● 2 lemons

● 1 sweet or Seville orange

● 1.4kg (3lb) granulated, cane sugar

● 1.7litres (3 pints) water.

Select small grapefruit and thin-skinned lemons. Aim to get a total weight of grapefruit, orange and lemons of between 675g-700g (around 1.5lb).

Halve and juice the fruit. Put the pips and any pulpy remains from the juicing into a piece of thin cotton muslin. Tie this up with string and add to the pan. Pour the juice and the water into a large, lidded pan with a capacity of seven litres.

Quarter the halved fruit shells. Turn the shells peel side up and slice into strips. Add these to the pan. If possible, leave the pan overnight to allow the contents to soak. Next day, bring the lidded pan to the boil, turn down the heat and simmer gently for two hours. The peel should be tender.

Remove the muslin bag. Place it in a sieve suspended over the pan. Using a large spoon press any liquid from the bag back into the pan.

Warm the sugar and clean jars in a low oven (at 140C / Gas 1). Add the sugar to the pan and dissolve. Bring to a rolling boil and test for a set after 5-7 minutes using the flake, cold plate or thermometer tests. Leave to cool for seven minutes.

Remove any scum from the surface and discard. Stir the marmalade and pour into jars. Cover with new twist top lids or waxed discs. If using waxed discs add a cellophane cover when the marmalade is cold and set in the jars.

The chilled plate test is one way of checking your marmalade has set.

Remove the pan from the heat and take a teaspoon of marmalade from it.

Pour it on to a cold plate and leave it to stand for a minute. If a skin forms on the surface and a wrinkle forms when pushed gently with your finger, the jam should set.

If no wrinkle appears, return the pan to the heat and test again after a couple of minutes.

Another way to check a set is the temperature test.

A sugar thermometer is used to check that the jam has reached 104.5C (220F).

Put the thermometer in a glass jug of boiling water just before testing for a set. This helps it to register the temperature of the jam quickly when lowered into the pan to rest at the liquid level.

Stir the jam well before taking the temperature.

To get an accurate reading, avoid touching the base of the pan with the thermometer.

Once the required temperature has been reached, remove the pan from the heat to avoid over-boiling the jam and spoiling the flavour.