Overshadowed by Stonehenge nearby in the eyes of some tourists, Maurice Fells finds that Amesbury has more to offer than just the prehistoric stones on its doorstep

Many tourists see the quaint market town of Amesbury as a stepping stone on their way to a World Heritage Site.

For just two miles west of its ancient travellers' inns and traditional small shops stands Stonehenge, the circle of prehistoric stones drawing some 800,000 visitors a year from all over the world.

Yet, not many of them venture into the town itself, which is steeped in culture and history. It's also on the verge of becoming the new commercial heart of south Wiltshire.

"Amesbury is not only the home of Stonehenge, but it's a gem in this part of the world. Apart from its hotels, restaurants and shops, it has history and character. If only tourists realised what they're missing out on," says Tanya Smith, of Amesbury Community Partnership, which helps to boost the town's economy and tourism.

Andrew Williams, of Stonehenge Chamber of Trade, shares her view. "Visitors come to this part of the country on a route which takes them to London, Bath, Stonehenge and Stratford-upon-Avon.

"Unfortunately, there are no brown tourist signs on the A303 which direct them on to Amesbury."

The chamber is organising a French and Continental Christmas market. "It's the first time we've had a Continental market at Christmas. It will also have the traditional charity stalls where people can buy gifts.

"Streets in the town centre will be closed for this event on December 12, when our shops stay open late. We think there might be enough stalls to spread along two streets," said Andrew.

Meanwhile, there's much talk in the town over plans for two supermarkets. Tesco wants to open up shop in London Road on the site of a former transport depot, while Asda hopes to build on Solstice Park, a business and leisure park being built on the eastern edge of the town. Between them, the two supermarkets would create more than 650 full-time and part-time jobs.

Although Salisbury District Council granted planning permission for the stores, the Government has intervened and ordered a public inquiry. It says the decision could potentially conflict with national policies aimed at protecting town centres. The date of the inquiry has yet to be announced.

One town centre shopkeeper, who didn't want to identified, said: "The supermarkets could cause really big problems for the small traders. Our business would be heavily dented especially if they incorporate units such as a dry cleaner and a pharmacy."

The district council has designated Amesbury as its centre for employment growth. When the £250 million Solstice Park is completed in 2015, it will provide 5,000 jobs.

Covering 160 acres, it will be one of the largest mixed-use business parks in central southern England. A hotel and several eating houses have already opened.

"This is going to have a massive effect on jobs which will be good for Amesbury and the local economy," says Tanya Smith, who is also general manager of the Holiday Inn on the site. "We opened just over a year ago and employ 78 people from Amesbury."

In recent years, the town has grown rapidly with many new homes being built. Since the turn of the century, Archers Gate, an estate just a 15-minute walk from the town centre, has been completed. It brings Amesbury's population to some 7,000 people.

However, Amesbury sits at the centre of a population area of 28,000 people in surrounding villages such as Shrewton, Durrington Bulford, Figheldean, Boscombe Down and much of Salisbury Plain.

Large military and RAF camps surround the town, including an important experimental flying base at Boscombe Down, half-a-mile from the centre, where new aircraft are tested.

Military flying began here in 1917 and the site remains at the forefront for testing as the United Kingdom's and Western Europe's only dedicated military flight test centre.

Amesbury sits on the sprawling Salisbury Plain, nine miles north of the cathedral city of Salisbury, and 12 miles west of the Thruxton motor-racing circuit. It's on a bend in the River Avon, crossed by the charming Queensbury Bridge of five arches built in the Palladian style. A walk around the centre still reveals the inherent traditional character. Buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, for example, can be found in High Street, Salisbury Street, Church Street and Smithfield Street.

The George Hotel has roots deeply entrenched in the 13th century when it was a pilgrims' hostel.

Although many of the buildings have been superficially modified for present-day domestic and commercial use as shops, they still have their original architectural style, with small close-set windows and half-hipped roofs. The oldest building is probably the church of St Mary and St Melor – a Breton saint. Parts of it date back to the 12th century.

Amesbury celebrated a millennium in 1979, marking the anniversary of the establishment of its abbey. It was built on the site of the property to which it's said Queen Guinevere withdrew on hearing of King Arthur's death.

The present Amesbury Abbey, a classical mansion, set in 30 acres of parkland with the River Avon running through it, was rebuilt in 1840. For the past 30 years or so it's been a private nursing home.