Kohi Noor is one of those contemporary Indians a million miles away from the flock wallpaper restaurants of old.

Chutneys and the rest of the courses are served in either clear glass dishes or white china bowls.

There isn't a candle-lit hot plate in sight, but then the food is so good it shouldn't have a chance to cool down that much anyway.

After a stack of grease-free, warm poppadoms with excellent chutneys (a mossy green minty one being the star of the show), came a king prawn puri (£7.25).

A thin and lacelike pancake that had been rolled around a generous filling of plump king prawns, diced peppers, chopped onion, fresh coriander and curry leaves, it was a delicate dish with quite a kick.

As well as the more familiar main course options, Kohi Noor offers a number of specialities.

There's Goan fish curry; prawn malabari (jumbo king prawns marinated in coconut milk, ground mustard, fennel seeds and spices), and gosht ghazala (lamb marinated overnight in black pepper, coriander, fennel cooked in a rich cashew nut sauce).

I went for the gosht Belliram (£8.95) – a spicy dish of outrageously tender lamb that didn't really require a knife in a thick sauce topped with matchsticks of fresh ginger to give it an additional layer of heat.

It was good to to see that the quality of the cooking is still as high as it was when I first visited.