Pub of the week Serving the new breed of beer fans

Beer traditionalists will no doubt moan about the fact it's expensive, the beers are served at the "wrong" temperature, the glasses are the "wrong" shape, the lights are too low and the room is too noisy, but then BrewDog is no fusty refuge for chin-stroking beer bores with beards and sandals.

With its brick and stone walls, exposed concrete, industrial steel pipes and low enamel lighting, this is a world away from traditional pubs.

This is more a haven for the new generation of beer enthusiasts tired of being served bland, mass-produced ales.

OK, some of them may have beards, but they're more likely to be wearing "Craft Beer Junkie" T-shirts and Converse trainers than sandals.

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With pints starting at £3.95, BrewDog, which opened last week, is certainly not a cheap option for beer drinkers but, to recycle the slogan for a certain mass-produced lager that isn't on sale here, it is reassuringly expensive, as these are beers produced in small batches with the finest ingredients.

This is the ninth craft ale bar to be launched by the groundbreaking and very cool Scottish brewery BrewDog, the self-styled punks of the beer world.

As well as eight of their own beers on draught – from Dead Pony Club at a modest 3.8% strength to the Tokyo at 18.2% (only served in third-pints at £4.75 a glass) – there are guest draught ales from around the world, including Firestone Walker Union Jack from the USA and Mikkeller Belgian Tripel from Denmark.

A vast range of bottled beers includes the full BrewDog range, but also many from some of the most exciting craft brewers in the world, including The Kernel Brewery in London.

Food is limited to a few well-sourced snacks – cheese and charcuterie boards (£7 for small or £14 for large), cured sausage with English mustard and bread (£5), olives (£3.50) or Pipers crisps (£1). Local suppliers include Source in St Nicholas Market, Castellanos, Hobbs House and Westcombe Dairy.

I went for a glass of Libertine Black Ale (£4.25 for two thirds of a pint). At 7.2%, it's a deceptively strong, dark beer with a refreshing citrus twist, but then there is always the temptation of the BrewDog Tactical Nuclear Penguin. At a stonking 32%, it is claimed to be the strongest beer in the world and only served in 25ml shots at £6 a pop. Now, that's what I call an expensive hangover.

BrewDog 58 Baldwin Street, Bristol, BS1 1QW. 0117 927 9258