Norway: Fjord focus
Reflections of mountains dance in the ripples of a far-reaching waterway. I look up at roaring waterfalls and steep cliffs tower above me on both sides.
I'm blasting along one of Norway's famous fjords in a RIB (a rigid inflatable boat) surrounded by dramatic scenery – and I feel very small.
The wind is in my hair and every now and then a splash of cold water lands on my face and reminds me that I'm not dreaming.
The fjords of Norway are nature's own works of art, dug out by ice, stone and rock during successive ice ages and formed when the glaciers retreated and seawater flooded the U-shaped valleys.
The landscape is expansive and untouched. It's like a scene out of the film Jurassic Park. Dolphins break the mirror-like surface as they slip in and out of the water and seals are dotted along the rocks.
A sea eagle flies overhead, its huge wingspan marking the clear blue sky. This bird of prey is very rare and a true sight to behold. And that's a bit like Norway itself. This place will show you landscapes and memories that are hard to find anywhere else.
Norway's landscape is like a fairytale, even its culture is full of snow queens and trolls, and the country is synonymous with the mysterious Northern Lights.
Norway has a history flowing with Viking blood. As soon as we arrived, we were taken to visit Avaldsnes, an old Viking village, to experience how the Vikings went about daily life. In this wilderness, it's easy to imagine Viking longships on the vast watery horizon. The landscape is so unchanged in parts that it feels quite magical to look out on to almost the same scenery as Vikings may have about 1,000 years ago.
Norwegians have held on to that Viking energy, it seems – the people have an adventurous spirit and a zest for life.
We took a trip to Utsira, an "exotic island" in the North Sea, 18km west of Haugesund. Only 213 people live on the island and it's Norway's smallest borough. We took bikes and cycled around the island – by far the best way to take in all the savage Scandinavian scenery. We pedalled up huge hills and whizzed down stoney paths while looking out for its 320 different species of bird. Utsira is so quiet, so still and very isolated.
There are no police here and the island is held together by its good community. I left my bag at one point, and was promptly told by a local not to worry – "you're in Norway now".
We stopped for lunch, which comprised a rich fish soup (a signature dish in Norway) and freshly caught prawns, or "shrimp" – we debated the difference while shelling them. You see, here it doesn't take long to forget home and your troubles – things like trying to distinguish one sort of shellfish from another is all you've got to worry about. There's something about an unpolluted and scarcely populated landscape that really helps clear the mind.
Another ferry journey took us back to Bergen and then to Balestrand. Artists have been coming to this majestic town for years, inspired by its rustic romanticism. We stayed at the Kviknes Hotel with its famous 1913 Swiss-style facade – a well-known landmark in the region. Another well known landmark in Balestrand is St Olavs Church, also known as "the English church", which is an Anglican church built in the style of a stave church.
We visited this medieval wooden church – its post and beam construction fits in well with its natural surroundings and its views are unique. We took a walk in the open, hearing only the sounds of nature – birds, rivers and waterfalls.
The next place on our list was Flåm – yet another spectacular landscape, set in a deep valley of mountains. It was here that we took our fjord safari across the Naerøyfjord with mountains towering more than 1,000 metres above its tranquil waters.
The Flåm River runs through one of the most scenic regions of western Norway. It's a fisherman's dream, there's cod, coalfish and mackerel to be caught all along the country's coast and salmon, sea trout and red char swim in many rivers. Freshwater lakes and ponds are abundant with pike, perch, eel, trout and char. Norway would make a great fishing holiday – but do check relevant laws and regulations before you come. Visit the Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre and you can encounter large wild salmon at close quarters and learn more about their adventurous life.
Another highlight of Flåm is its railway – this mountain railway line is 856.6 metres above sea level and is one of the world's steepest railway journeys. We took the Flåm train to Myrdal in Voss and the trip provided yet more breathtaking scenery.
Voss is centrally located between the two most famous Norwegian fjords and it's the perfect venue for extreme activities like paragliding, parasailing and rafting as well as horse riding, angling, hiking, bicycle tours, kayak trips and golf. By the time we got back to Bergen, we were exhausted.
Bergen is known as "the city between the seven mountains" and is built around a colourful harbour. It has a cosmopolitan feel and has plenty of shops offering the perfect antidote to isolated countryside. It certainly provided us with a welcome break from travelling.
Dinner that evening at the beautiful Fløien Restaurant at the top of the Mount Fløyen towering 320m above the city was very special. To get there, we took the Fløien Funicular, a sort of mountain train, giving us a spectacular view over the city. The restaurant forms a landmark at the top of the most popular of the seven mountains. We had a great meal in a superb location and it felt like we were on the top of the world.
The food in Norway is mainly seafood-based and very fresh, and it's not uncommon to find moose and reindeer on the menu.
Bergen is also the birthplace of famous Romantic composer and pianist Edvard Grieg. We visited Troldhaugen, which was once his home, and discovered how he "painted" Norway's people, scenery and moods with musical notes
Norway is perfect for a short break, just two hours away from the UK. Mother nature is in charge and you can get away from it all.
Norway has inspired writers, artists and composers through the centuries – and once you've been there, the pull of the magnetic north seems to get stronger still.
I long to go back to Norway to see the Northern Lights.
Gemma Senington flew from Heathrow to Haugesund via Oslo with SAS. For more information visit www.flysas.com or call 0871 521 2772.
Gemma travelled around western Norway. In Haugesund, she stayed at the Rica Maritim Hotel (www.hotelmaritim.no).
In Stord, she spent a night at the Stord Hotel (www.stord-hotel.no)
In Balestrand, she stayed at the Kviknes Hotel (www.kviknes.no).
In Lærdal, she stayed at Lindstrøm Hotel (www.lindstroemhotel.no).
In Bergen, she stayed at the Bergen Travel Hotel, www.hotelbergen.com/visartikkel. asp?art=231
For information about the fjord safari visit www.fjordsafari.no
For more information from Innovation Norway (the Norwegian Tourist Board) visit www.visitnorway.co.uk









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