Life in the slow lane
I AM ashamed to admit that I was not aware of Alderney's existence before the opportunity arose for me to take a trip there.
The third largest of the Channel Islands, it measures three-and-a-half miles long and has a population of just 2,400, so I was curious to know what attracted visitors to such a remote place. Skip forward to one of the most relaxing weekends away I have had in a long time, and I am not ashamed to admit that when the time came for myself and my boyfriend Peter to leave... well, let's just say I was reluctant to go. And when a wrong turn on the way to the airport almost made us miss our flight home, I wished we had left the hotel just that little bit later!
Travelling to Alderney is half the fun. We flew with Aurigny airlines from Bristol to Alderney via Guernsey. The flight is just an hour but with Aurigny, the service is exceptional and we were making our descent into Guernsey before we knew it. Our bags had already been transferred onto our flight to the island and with no long security or check-in queues, we had nothing else to worry about. One word to describe the experience of flying with Aurigny from Guernsey to Alderney is 'personal'. An eight-seater Trislander plane greeted us as our small group of passengers were called to board by our first names. Such a simple gesture but it made us feel like we were not just numbers and pound signs to this airline, but a special group of people heading to an equally special place. The pilot even turned around in his seat to welcome us all aboard before taking off. As I gazed out of my window, I truly did feel like I was being transported to another world, leaving my worries behind the further away we flew.
Arriving in Alderney, we waited for our bags to unload (which took all of two minutes) and then hopped into the nifty Suzuki we had hired for the duration of our trip. Alderney is a dream come true for those of you who spend an hour stuck in traffic on the way to work. The island has no traffic lights, no traffic jams and no road rage. We must have met only two other cars on the road to our hotel, and both let us pass with a friendly wave – an early hint of the easygoing nature of the locals there. Street signs are not the island's strong point but we were in no hurry and relished getting delightfully lost along the coastal roads, before eventually finding ourselves outside our hotel.
The Harbour Lights Hotel is the ideal place to stay when you visit. Situated minutes from Braye Beach and just a short stroll to the main town of St Anne, it is the perfect base from which to explore the island. We received a warm welcome from the owner, Steve, who checked us into a large double room with a lovely sea view and a massive en suite. Dropping our bags, we headed straight out again. The best way to get around the island is to walk. There are many coastal walks which lead you down to the island's seven beaches or high up along the cliff tops, which boast one breathtaking view after another. We spent a good few hours on our first afternoon on the island cruising along the quiet roads, stopping every once in a while to allow a rabbit to cross our path safely or to walk to the edge of a cliff and gaze across at France, which is only eight miles away. The pure tranquillity of this place is something else. Coming from a city where you grow immune to hearing the sound of an ambulance siren or seeing a drunken brawl in the street, the sound of birdsong and the sight of a family of rabbits crossing the road would relax even the most stressed visitor.
That night we went to watch England playing Algeria in The Albert, a pub in the town where it seemed all of Alderney had had the same idea. There was a great buzz and the atmosphere was friendly. Though we were obviously tourists – as everyone else seemed to know each other – we weren't treated as such and were even invited to a party in one of the island's famous underground German bunkers.
The next day we set out early to explore some more. The island's history dates back to 8000BC and there are many Neolithic sites. Alderney Museum boasts an interesting display of artefacts and records chronicling the island's marine and military history, and is well worth a visit to fully understand its roots. You cannot explore the island without stumbling across one of its many fortifications. Sometimes referred to as 'Fortress Island', many of the fortresses have been restored and even rented out as accommodation. Alderney was occupied by the Germans in the Second World War and there are still traces of this hostile takeover evident in the odd bunker or memorial plaque dotted around the island.
Another famous landmark is Mannez Lighthouse. Built in 1912, it is a restful sight by day but comes alive at night, its impressive light sweeping across the island and guiding us along the road home when we drove up that night for a second look. St Anne's Church is also worth a visit and though it has literally been through the wars, has lived to tell the tale. Off dry land, a boat trip will allow you to experience Alderney's vast seabird life, where you have the chance of spotting seals, puffins or the island's famous gannets in their natural habitat.
Our day flew by, and all that walking and fresh air meant we were more than ready for dinner upon our return. Though there are plenty of places to eat on the island, we chose to sample our hotel's menu and it did not disappoint. A feast of scallops and chargrilled pepper steak followed by a wonderfully light crème brulee made us guilty enough to take one more walk along the beach before returning to enjoy a drink on the hotel's top terrace, surrounded by a sky blushed red with the promise of more good weather on the way.
We were both quiet the next morning as we boarded our flight home. While our stay in Alderney had been short, we both agreed it was exactly what we had needed. The reality of work and city life can at times make you feel like a hamster on a running wheel. Alderney is a place where you can get off the wheel and recharge your batteries without the stress of expense, crowds of other tourists and long periods of travel.
It really is the perfect weekend escape. What are you waiting for?
■ Grace and Peter flew with Aurigny Air Services from Bristol to Alderney (www.aurigny.com) and stayed at The Harbour Lights Hotel (www.harbourlightsalderney.com).
For more information on the island, see www.visitalderney.com.







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