Lazy brunch American-style diner with all the trimmings

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Friday, October 05, 2012
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Next year is a significant birthday for Rocotillos as it will be 20 years since Craig Collins opened this American-style diner on the corner of The Triangle.

Rocotillos is an unashamedly retro slice of 1950s American nostalgia, right down to the chrome and leather stools around the central counter, the leather banquettes and booth seating. Tables are white Formica, most walls have mirrors and although there isn't a jukebox, music wafts from a radio in the open kitchen.

All that was missing was a cluster of leather-jacketed Marlon Brando types huddled in the corner, although a tattooed chap in sleeveless t-shirt had just arrived and was ordering his Ten Gallon Tex's Serious breakfast.

Breakfast is served until midday all week apart from Sunday when it is extended until 1pm, after which the lunch menu kicks in for the rest of the day. The lunch menu takes in nachos, quesadillas, burgers, hot dogs, chilli and specials such as chicken enchiladas and Sloppy Joe's (grilled beef with spicy tomato, pepper and onion sauce in a roll with French fries on the side).

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Pancakes are served throughout the day and they come in sweet or savoury versions. You can wash them down with one of several thick milkshakes which include vanilla, strawberry or chocolate as well as a range of other flavours including Oreo cookie or Crunchie bar and honey.

These American-style pancakes are thick, fluffy and incredibly filling. In a futile attempt to go for "the healthy option", I ordered the banana pancakes with maple syrup (£4.95) although any notions that this was a slimmer's choice soon went out the window.

Each the diameter of a seven-inch single (remember those?), the three pancakes were about 1cm thick and whilst not exactly feather light, they were certainly a perfect vehicle for the lashings of sweet maple syrup. The banana slices had been added to the pancake batter, which was a smart idea, even if it added to the richness of the overall dish.

I managed to eat just over half of it before throwing in the white paper napkin and hauling myself out of the booth. I'm glad I didn't ask for the optional ice cream or butter on top.

And that's the only problem with Rocotillos. Its cool 50s diner vibe may make you feel like a slim and sexy Marlon Brando in The Wild One when you arrive, but you might leave feeling more like the fat and lazy Brando in his twilight years. You have been warned.

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