With off-road routes running through farmland, forest, open heathland and on a private beach where you can gallop flat out for seven kilometres, the terrain around the Quantock Hills is varied, making it an interesting place for a day ride, or a trail ride to the coast and back.

The company that operates these rides – Travels on Horseback – was set up 18 months ago by Kathryn Davies, who gave up a high-powered job in London to return to her West Country roots.

I met Kathryn at a farm near Over Stowey, where she had boxed two of her six horses, Smooch and Rocky, who were to be our very willing transport for the four and a half hours we spent exploring the southern end of the Quantocks – the first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The farm, set down a tiny little lane, backs almost directly on to Forestry Commission-owned The Great Wood, where wide and empty paths are lined with a mix of pine and deciduous trees.

We crossed a rushing stream and trotted for a long stretch along the far bank before climbing up on to the flank of the valley.

Passing through parkland and woods (more cantering) belonging to a once stately home, Quantock Lodge, that is now a wedding venue, the horses were surprised by a small herd of red deer who shot across in front of us, bringing our easy canter to a temporary halt.

Once at the top of the valley, on the edge of Pepper Hill, the view (one of many that day) was spectacular, looking south over the forest and Somerset farmland before us. Through a wooded avenue along the top of the ridge – Samaritans Way South West – walkers spoiled another chance of a canter, but we managed to pick up the pace again when we passed through a gate into common grassland, where we could see a herd of wild ponies in the distance.

I had no idea ponies were wild on the Quantocks, and the stock is a good sort too: bigger and more refined than Exmoors or Dartmoors, with neater heads and more lift in their movement, they might be a mix of Welsh, New Forest or even thoroughbred blood and they come in a huge range of colours. Kathryn's tempted to buy a couple of foals in preparation for future generations of riding holidaymakers.

Dropping down into the next valley, Little Quantock Combe, we passed a farm whose owner had obviously bought three young ponies, who were very inquisitive when we stopped for a look.

Clopping through the village of Crowcombe, we turned off behind the Carew Arms, tied the horses to the fence in the car park, and headed in for a delicious lunch in front of a welcome wood-burning stove.

An hour and a half later, we retraced our steps back up the valley for a short while, before turning off into a large field and letting rip up the hill. Rocky, a thoroughbred who was once in training, but has spent much of his 14 years hunting, streaked ahead, but was easy to pull up.

He's keen, and asks to go faster all the time when cantering, but he's not strong and as soon as you slacken the reins, he drops into an easy walk, with none of that irritating jogging that some thoroughbreds are prone to.

Kathryn's mount, Smooch, is an absolute gem of a horse. About 15hh, he's a fairly stout Irishman, but isn't cobby, and is clearly enjoying his new life as a trail horse after competitive eventing. Good-natured and polite in every way, he's also no slouch, but if ever there's a push-button horse, then Smooch is it.

The remainder of Kathryn's herd consists of a hunter-type, another thoroughbred, a cob and a pony. They all live together as a herd and are out all year round on her own land, with a field shelter so they can escape the worst of the weather.

As we climbed still further, up to the viewpoint of Crowcombe Lodge Gate on the very top of the Quantocks, the wind picked up and we passed a few misshapen small, stubby trees, bent over by the force of the weather.

But mostly this area is open heath, and with no trees to spoil the view, the panoramic 360 degree vista was breathtaking, and I could clearly see Hinkley Point power station on the coast near Portishead and the two islands of Steep Holme and Flat Holme in the bay beyond.

We returned to The Great Wood via another little valley – Rams Combe – and back to the farm at Adscombe. Apart from a short stretch in the village where we had lunch, we had been off-road all day, and met just a few walkers and an energetic bunch on mountain bikes.

On longer trails, you can criss-cross the hills for several days, including an overnight stop next to the sea at Perry Beach, where the horses can blast along a private stretch of sand at high tide.

Staying at sumptuous guest house and hotels along the way, all chosen for their comfort and good food, everything is carried in saddle bags. If you're confident reading a map, you can hire the horses, leaving Kathryn out of the equation, or you could bring your own horse and hire Kathryn as your guide. She aims to tailor her holidays to each guest's needs.

For more information, visit www.travelsonhorseback.com.

Video: Get a taste of what it is like to ride across the Quantocks