Going Greek Substantial supper for under a tenner

The Kebab House has been a permanent fixture at the bottom of St Michael's Hill since the mid-1960s, making it one of the oldest restaurants in Bristol.

The current owners, George Ioannou and his wife Flora, have been at the helm a mere 25 years, which must make them two of the longest- serving stalwarts of the city's restaurant scene.

From the front, The Kebab House looks deceptively small but it is Tardis-like inside, with a large restaurant area at the back. The dining room looks pretty much unchanged from the time the current owners took over and, one suspects, much of it is the same as it was in the late 1960s.

Greek flags hang from the ceiling and walls are decorated with murals of Mediterranean fishermen and dancers in full Greek costume. There are also hundreds of photographs showing parties and diners eating at the restaurant over the past 25 years.

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Although the takeaway options are limited to kebabs (including the inevitable post-pub "elephant leg" doner), the restaurant menu is extensive and features a number of traditional Greek dishes not found in many other places in the city.

These include pastourma (hot spiced sausages), spanakopitta (spinach and feta pies in filo pastry) and loukanika (spiced Greek sausages marinated in wine).

The short wine list is dominated by Greek bottles with names such as Aphrodite, Othello and Domestica, and it must be one of the only places still offering that Sixties favourite Liebfraumilch.

I started with dolmades (£3.65) – three hot parcels of stuffed vine leaves packed with a mixture of rice and minced meat (maybe lamb, maybe pork) with a gentle spice (I detected cinnamon and cumin). The three fat cigars were smothered in a rich tomato sauce and served with a basket of good, piping hot pita bread.

The kebabs are cooked over charcoal and include lamb, pork, chicken or combinations of all three. I went for the lamb (£9.85), which arrived as two long skewers, each comprising ten generous pieces of tender meat. Beneath the skewers, there was a bed of tomato and cinnamon-flavoured rice and a separate bowl of fresh made-to- order Greek salad packed with feta, shredded white cabbage, iceberg lettuce, cucumber and olives.

For under a tenner, it was a substantial supper and excellent value.