There was a time when Nevil Road, home of Gloucestershire cricket, seemed to be one of the least attractive grounds on the first-class circuit.

Those grey forbidding Victorian orphanages inevitably evoked too many bleak images. The landscaping was stark and soulless, though there was at least a succession of sublimely gifted players to lift the psychological gloom.

But what do we see happening? A transformation, in ambitions as well as structures, has methodically and quietly taken place. The point was graphically made on Sunday when, on a perfect day, the once dowdy ground assumed international stature and a sheen that once could surely never have been envisaged.

This was certainly not a day to find flaws. Indeed the only one was the sluggish fibre of the opposition. The West Indies, who lost by six wickets – and rather more in reputation – failed to produce any real signs of the competitive zeal that a splendidly large crowd wanted and deserved.

It is not the moment to analyse where, once again in recent years, West Indian cricket, bereft of its mighty fast bowlers and match winners, has utterly lost its way – in terms of performance and intention. Chris Gayle's reproachful words directed at his own team, were not misplaced even if he could hardly expect to escape criticism himself.

Most of the decent play came from England. If this wasn't an absorbing enough match to hold the attention of the fans, then at least there was the glowing consolation of a county club shaking off its own self-effacing attitudes Things are stirring again, however belatedly, at Gloucestershire. It isn't going to be a dramatic overnight process.

The size of the Sunday crowd was one outward sign. And that in turn brought back the memories. One or two older members even remember that wondrous visit of the Australians in 1930, when the gates were closed with 18,000 spectators jammed inside. Nevil Road never hosted a more thrilling game.

Australia's players had arrived in Bristol, exuberant and doubtless cocky after beating England by an innings at the Oval. Gloucestershire should be a cinch, they argued. But county skipper Bev Lyon was at his most daring; he opened his bowling attack in the second innings with spinners Charlie Parker and Tom Goddard. They wheeled away, unwaveringly accurate and unchanged through the innings. And this game of peerless excitement ended in a tie.

Gloucestershire CCC were wonderfully served by their slow bowlers, whether the tetchy Charlie or the lugubrious Tom. So they were by their magnificent stroke-makers. Leading broadcaster Patrick Murphy has just updated his definitive "The Centurions – from Grace to Ramprakash" (Fairfield Books). There have been 25 batsmen who scored 100 hundreds and, with fewer first class matches, the list will never again be extended.

But here also comes the significant margin note of much regional pride. Four of those revered batting artists played for Gloucestershire – WG Grace (and just consider some of the rough tracks on which he played), Wally Hammond, Tom Graveney and Zaheer Abbas.

Meticulously and affectionately written, it is far more than merely eloquent statistics. The author accompanies each of his subjects with an intimate profile, full of insights and asides, taking a dig occasionally when one is necessary, but generous in praise, perceptive in comment.

I was well aware of Zaheer's obsession for run making, though the amusing details of his 1982 century at the Parks is delightfully new to me. In a warm-up match against Oxford University, Zed ignored the advice and convention of giving away his wicket to allow some early-season practice for others. He got his hundred and took a fresh guard.

Concerned with the game's etiquette, the captain David Graveney in the end stood near the sightscreen so that he could distract the brilliant if preoccupied Pakistan star.