Breathtaking Brendon

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Saturday, May 09, 2009
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This is Bristol

Sue Gearing enjoys breathtaking views of moorland and the North Devon coast on this walk across Exmoor

This is a ramble of great contrasts on Exmoor, taking in the open gorse and heather moorland and the beautiful East Lyn river valley.

It's about seven miles/about 3.5 hours walking. Use the map OS Explorer Outdoor Leisure map 9, Exmoor, grid ref:758 452.

Park on Brendon Common on the B3223 road from Simonsbath to Lynmouth.

It is the most southerly of a series of six parking areas on the road. About 4.25 miles from Simonsbath, going north, find it on the right in a circular small disused quarry, before you get to Dry Bridge.

A n exploration of Exmoor through the open moorland with gorgeous gorse and, later, heavenly heather, and down into the wooded valley of the East Lyn, a typical Exmoor river bubbling its way over rocks.

This is a great place to see the shy dipper and up on the moor, hear the sound of the larks.

There are two quiet riverside pubs en route, popular with ramblers, and a cottage for cream teas, all in and near Brendon.

After Brendon there is a climb out of the valley, steep in parts, but other than that it is flat and downhill.

Take layers of clothing and expect it to be windy and possibly much cooler on the top. Also wear good boots as the going under foot at one stage is rocky, uneven and steep. After rain, expect some wet and muddy patches.

The dog can enjoy the circle too, but watch out for sheep.

START

Turn right along the road, cross a small stone bridge (Dry Bridge) and on the bend take the marked footpath to Shilstone going out across the open heather-clad moor.

1. TRIG

Reach the trig point at 405 metres on Shilstone Hill where you get some great coastal views. Fork right shortly after the trig and follow the yellow top posts, soon gradually dropping.

Come towards the edge above Shilstone. Turn right and drop more steeply down. Cross a small stream and arrive at Shilstone.

2. SHILSTONE

Head up towards the farmhouse and go left through the gate. Then go straight ahead past buildings and at the side of the house go ahead through a gate following the footpath.

Head across the middle of the field to an opening on the far side. Once through, go left down the hedge and cross a stile in the corner – be careful, it is a very steep descent from the stile.

Follow the lane left. Start to climb and shortly turn right on the public footpath to Rockford.

3. WOODS

Go down through beautiful woods following a tumbling stream, past some small waterfalls. The path is steep, rocky and can be slippery. One section is boggy, but an alternative way alongside has been fashioned by walkers.

Reach a shed at the foot and see the remains of the old water wheel at the side. Come down to a lane and turn left, walking with the East Lyn River down on the right.

4. ROCKFORD

Arrive at the hamlet of Rockford and the wonderful country pub, the 17th-century Rockford Inn with tables and chairs above the river in a unique rural setting. It is popular with ramblers, fishermen and farmers alike.

Cross the footbridge that you passed just before the pub and turn right along the river on the path towards Brendon.

This is a memorable stretch of the walk in this quiet, wooded valley, which you will be in for more than a mile. Pass a cottage and footbridge and, later, more cottages and eventually see over on the right the Staghunters, the riverside pub at Brendon. Reach a lane and continue on.

5. BRENDON

Cross right over a road bridge over the East Lyn River. There is a cottage ahead serving cream teas and for the Staghunters, turn right. But to continue our round go left on the lane. You will follow this hedged lane for about three quarters of a mile, passing a small campsite and then climbing.

6. BRIDLEWAY

Reach a bridleway on the right to Malsmead and Brendon Common. This is the start of the climb up on to the open land again. Go ahead up through a gate and then turn left, walking below the hill which is a public Open Access area in the Exmoor National Park.

The track bends right and then go left (not straight up), walking with oak woodland on the left, and climbing still. There are some good views over the valley behind as you go.

Come up to a signpost. Turn right and continue the climb, which is more gentle now, across open land. Maintain direction (it may be boggy in parts) and reach a gate on to a lane.

7. LANE

Take the stony bridleway ahead to Dry Bridge. At a fork, go straight on and follow it ahead, with wide sweeping Exmoor views. Drop down to a ford.

8. FORD

On the other side leave the track and go more or less straight on, up a stony path. Immediately, curve round to the right, following a bank of heather up on the right and the track climbs and soon becomes better defined and stony.

Soon you level out and can now stride out enjoying the open views.

9. CROSSING PATH

After well over half a mile, reach a crossroads of large tracks. Go straight on and after a few yards join another large broad dry track and bear right on it. It's a triangle of tracks, in effect.

Stay on this for nearly another half-mile all the way to a crossing track and signpost. Go straight on towards Dry Bridge.

After a while you pick up the Exmoor views you had at the start. Reach a car parking area up above the road. Turn right through it and then drop down a bank to the quarry car park where you started.

Rockford Inn, Brendon, Lynton, Devon EX35 6PT. Tel: 01598 741214. Open all year and every day except Mondays. The Staghunters Inn, Brendon, near Lynton, Devon EX35 6PS. Tel: 01598 741222, open all year and all week. Please telephone before setting out to confirm opening times.

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