The Beacons are beckoning
Experience the glory of the Lake District, but go no further
than Wales. Stunning views and a great day out at Tor y Foel
will make both you and your dog very happy, writes a tired, but
satisfied, Sue Gearing
A GLORIOUS challenge in the Brecon Beacons in the Usk valley,
and although fairly long, it is within the capabilities of most
moderate walkers.
It is a circle with huge variety, stupendous views and the
feel of the Lake District. Apart from the peak climb, the rest
of the walk is pretty flat or with a very gentle gradient. It
is a walk to make your dog's day, too.
Do try and choose a good clear summer day and take food and
water and wear layers of clothing to cope with possible sudden
changes in the weather.
START
Cross the dam enjoying magnificent views over the lake and
stunning surrounds. In early June, there was a fantastic
display of rhododendrons down by the turbine buildings to add
to the spectacle. Ahead is Tor y Foel (551 metres) the hill we
are to climb. On the far side, ignore the Tarmac lane by the
lake and go up a few yards and turn right on the old railway
line, now the Taff Trail. The Brecon and Merthyr Junction
Railway had the nickname of Breakneck and Murder Railway owing
to a certain tendency towards having accidents – which, owing
to the steep gradients, were generally rather severe.
1. TAFF TRAIL
This is a popular walking and cycle path that runs for 55
miles between Cardiff Bay and Brecon following the River Taff
for much of the way.
Enjoy glimpses of the reservoir through the trees as you
progress. It is a gentle climb. If you are lucky, you may
glimpse in the trees on the left a brick chimney – the remains
of a linesman's hut. Ignore one path on the left (unmarked) and
after about half a mile, take the first marked footpath on the
left, going back on yourself somewhat and climbing. Cross a
track and continue on up following the marked path until you
reach the crossing tramway.
This is the route of the old Brinore Tramroad which was the
early horse-drawn forerunner of the modern railway.
2. TRAMWAY
Turn right and follow this along. Reach a junction of tracks
and leave the tramway which drops down. Continue on along the
main stony track for a few more minutes until you come into the
open and a crossing path.
Turn left climbing up the small, rather wet path. Continue
on to cross a stile and ahead which leads into the open area
below Tor y Foel. Continue uphill on the path getting more and
more stunning views.
3. SIGNPOST
Reach a footpath marker and Tarmac. It's a good place for a
brief rest to enjoy the views before tackling Tor y Foel.
Should the weather have turned really bad, you can avoid the
summit. Cross the wall ahead and follow the Beacons Way for
about 1.75 miles to a lane where you follow directions from 5.
Beacons Way, joining the route from the summit.
For the summit, cross the Tarmac and bear up left on the
path up to the top walking through bilberries (ripe in August),
enjoying the sound of the skylarks and the views.
4. TOR-Y-FOEL
Reach the summit at 551 metres. Continue on and soon begin
to descend. Just follow the path on down, leaving the open area
and then going down a field with a boundary ditch on the left
(the path actually goes down the ditch, but clearly walkers
choose to stay in the field at the side). Go through a gate at
the far end of the boundary ditch on to a lane.
5. BEACONS WAY
Cross and continue on down now on the Beacons Way
maintaining direction more or less all the time, through
fields. The Way is a 100-mile linear route through the Brecons
and is well marked. Eventually go down through woodland and
below you hear the River Crawnon.
6. CANAL
Reach the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal which is likely to
be dry because a section has been shut off for repairs. The pub
is a five-minute detour: turn right a short way along the canal
and then through a wooden gate on to the road just before a
canal bridge. Go along the road, cross the canal bridge to the
popular Coach and Horses at Llangynidr with a canal-side
garden. The Brecon and Monmouth canal runs for 32 miles through
idyllic scenery between Brecon and Pontypool and then on into
Newport. Built between 1797 and 1812, the canal linked Brecon
with Newport and the Severn Estuary as a way of transporting
materials to ships at Newport Docks. Thanks to volunteers it is
now a popular route for cyclists and walkers, and a valuable
breeding spot for kingfishers. Return to where you joined the
canal and continue on along the towpath which is also the Usk
Valley Walk, a beautiful 48-mile (77km) walk between Caerleon
and Brecon through the Vale of Usk. After about 25 minutes
reach one of the temporary dams used to shut off an area of the
canal for repairs. So from now you can see the canal in its
full water glory.
7. TUNNEL
Come to the Ashford Tunnel, 343 metres long where the canal
disappears and you continue on along the path with Talybont a
mile further on. You have to walk along the road for a very
short while, passing Ashford House where on Tuesday afternoons
(2-6pm) in the summer you can enjoy a cream tea. Soon rejoin
the canal towpath. Go under a stone bridge and then ahead just
before a metal bridge carrying pipes; look over to the left to
see limekilns set back on a wharf by the canal. On your right
reach an information board explaining that this is the start of
the Brinore Tramroad and there is a replica truck on display.
Carry on along to Talybont where the White Hart is a very
pleasant pub with bench seats alongside the canal. Also here is
another canal- side pub, the Star, and a village store.
8. TALYBONT-ON-USK
It will now take 35 minutes back to the reservoir. Cross the
canal bridge by the White Hart, following signs for the Taff
Trail. Stay on the Tarmac straight on. Cross the old railway
line on a bridge and turn right on the Brynore Tramroad which
is also part of the Vaughan Walk here.
9. VAUGHAN GARDEN
Soon reach an information and pretty picnic area. Continue
along the tramroad which is a gentle gradient and gives
pleasant views over the Brecon Beacons. Ignore any side-turns
and soon get views over the reservoir. Reach a bench,
information board and section of the tramway.
10. RIGHT FORK
Further on at a junction of paths and signpost, leave the
tramroad and fork right down the Taff Trail which leads down
through woodland to join the old railway line. Turn left and
follow it along to the reservoir. Turn right back across the
dam to the start.
The Coach and Horses, Llangynidr. Tel: 01874 730245 (open
Mondays, but no food)
The White Hart, Talybont. Tel: 01874 676227
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0117 934 3704 to order a copy
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