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Saturday, March 14, 2009
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This is Bristol

This is a delightful Dorset downland walk from Hardy's Monument with glorious coastal views for much of the way. It's about 7.75 miles / four hours. Use the map OS Outdoor Leisure Map 15, Purbeck and South Dorset, ref: 613 876.

Park at Hardy's Monument, high up on Black Down Heath in Dorset, inland from Chesil Beach, about five miles south-west of Dorchester. It is reached on a small road from Martinstown off the B3159. Either park at the monument itself or down the road to Martinstown at the Forestry Commission lay-by/parking area, Black Down. Alternatively, park at Portesham and start from there.

A mazing views over the Dorset coast and Portland Bill make this a memorable walk to put a spring in your step on the high downland inland from Chesil Beach.

The walk shows the superb contours of the land and drops down from Hardy's Monument to Portesham where there is a welcoming pub. The circle then continues to explore this ancient land full of barrows, stone circles and tumuli, with more great views before climbing gently back up to the start.

We use footpaths, bridleways and the South West Coast Path. There is one very steep scramble up to the ridge before reaching Portesham, but it's optional. Otherwise, there are no major hills. Expect to find mud in a couple of spots after wet weather.

START

The 72ft-tall stone monument, now cared for by the National Trust, was built in 1844/5 high on Black Down Heath on the site of an earlier beacon. It is in memory of Admiral Thomas Hardy, famous as Captain Hardy of Nelson's flagship Victory. His family came from the village of Portesham just south of the Monument.

It is open on summer weekends.

Find a stone memorial seat nearby near a three-part information plinth. With your back to the seat, facing the plinth, turn left and take a small stony path down through heather, gorse and bracken, paralleling the road on your left. Reach a wider crossing path and turn left to reach the road.

Turn right on the road to the Forestry Commission's Black Down parking lay-by, where you may have parked, and the Jubilee Trail which crosses the road here. Alternatively you could simply turn right down the lane from the monument to this layby.

Turn right on the Jubilee Trail signed to Bincombe climbing up on to Bronkham Hill ridge.

1. HILL

Continue along enjoying the very special views over the contours of this beautiful land shaped by nature and man over many centuries. Ignore the Jubilee Trail which goes off right and just maintain direction along the ridge. Ignore the turn to Martinstown. Continue on through pastures.

2. SIGNPOST

Just after a large metal gate, at a signpost, turn right down a small path to Hell Bottom, which winds quite steeply down through gorse and brambles. Cross a stile into a field and follow the left edge down.

3. BENCH

Reach a solitary, ruined farmhouse at Bench. Note the keystone over the main door carved with the date, 1786. Turn left through the gate and follow the left fence on through the valley of Hell Bottom.

Maintain direction and near the end of the valley look for a large metal gate up on the left. Go up through this and then turn right in the same direction as before with the fence on your right. At the end turn right down a track and go out through a gate on to a lane.

4. WINTER'S LANE

Turn right. Follow it as it bends right towards Little Waddon and Portesham. Up on your right start to see some of the old medieval lynchets on the side of the hill. Soon reach a footpath and stile on the right.

Option 1:

For the easiest and flattest route to Portesham, simply stay on the lane all the way to the junction in the village – about two miles.

Option 2:

The most interesting and with fine views. This entails a very steep scramble up on to the hill and it's then fairly flat along the top before dropping back down to the lane. You get excellent views and pass a unique rural dinosaur sculpture and an old quarry.

For this, turn right over the stile and follow the arrow up left climbing steeply up the lynchets and the sheep terraces towards the top of the fence line on your left. Here cross a stile near the corner.

5. STILE

Go on along the ridge with glorious views on your left and fence on your right. Reach a small farm track, turn right in a couple of yards, and then left continuing as before and regaining the top fence on your right.

Continue on. Cross a stile by a telegraph post and continue. Cross another stile and on as before and stay along the hill all the way until you eventually go through a gate in the corner onto a surfaced farm drive. Turn left downhill.

6. OLD QUARRY

Reach an amazing dinosaur sculpture made from old farm machinery, and an information board about the old quarry here and the railway below which served it.

7. FARM DRIVE

Go down to the bottom of the farm drive. Here those who stayed on the lane join up. Turn right on the lane towards Portesham.

8. PORTESHAM

At the end of Winter's Lane in Portesham, turn left down the street with a stream flowing alongside. Reach the beautiful old church of St Peter's on the right. There is an interesting history in the church about Admiral Hardy's family who lived in Portesham. The welcoming King's Arms is a few yards on.

Go up Church Lane on the right. At a junction with New Road and Cemetery Road, turn right, soon passing the Methodist church on the right. Continue into Westfield and bend right.

9. BRIDLEWAY

Just before Manor Close reach a track left with a bridleway sign to Portesham, Withy Beds and White Hill. Go on and reach a gate. Go through a gate and follow the arrow left down the track, marked as the Abbotsbury Round Walk. Go through another gate as the track bends still towards Withy Beds and White Hill.

Start to climb gently with a fence on your left. You can clearly see the chapel on the hill above Abbotsbury along the coast. The track takes you on into a wooded valley where it may be a little muddy. Go through another gate into open grassland, still in the valley.

10. GRASSY VALLEY

Continue on, climbing gently for only couple of hundred yards to a sort of track junction and a few small stony outcrops. Here turn up right on a grassy track, going back on yourself, and climb steeply up to the fence and a signpost to Abbotsbury and White Hill.

Turn left, following the sign, now walking on the top of the bank above the valley with the fence on your right. And continue climbing gently. Ignore one stile right and continue on through gorse still above the valley.

11. STEPPED STILE

Eventually reach a large stepped stile on the right where you join the South West Coast Path and its acorn marker signs. Cross over right and continue with the fence line on your left. Continue on along the hill with magnificent coastal views across to Chesil Beach and Portland Bill and later, views to the monument. Go through a gate and past farm buildings to a road.

12. ROAD

Turn left and shortly follow the footpath signs to the monument on the right over a stile. Continue on towards the monument with the fence on your right. Cross a couple of stiles and continue with a wall on your right. Cross more stiles and go under trees to a crossing track.

13. WOOD

It's right on the track and then immediately left on a path through woodland. Continue gently uphill and fork up right later on through open heathland towards the monument. Just before the monument, turn right below it and follow the path up to the monument and car park. If you are parked down by the road, follow the instructions at the start.

The King's Arms, Portesham, Dorset DT3 4ET. Tel: 01305 871342. The monument is open April-Sept, weekends, 11am-5pm, subject to weather. Free to NT members, £2 adults, £1 children.

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